Kupka je oduvijek bila izvor snage, vitalnosti, zdravlja i dugog dugog života. Kupka je vrsta odmora u kojoj je osoba u stanju opustiti ne samo tijelo, već i dušu. Tako da se riješimo negativnih emocija i mentalnog umora, a tijelo opustimo parom, vrućinom i ledenom vodom.

Ako imate želju otići u saunu, postavlja se logično pitanje gdje ići? Postoje 3 vrlo popularne opcije:

  • Prva javna kupka (već zvuči loše)
  • Drugi u kupaonici prijateljima (nemaju svi takvog prijatelja)
  • Treće (izgraditi vlastitu saunu na svojoj dacha i uživati ​​u pravom odmoru).

Naravno, mnogi razmišljaju o 3. opciji. I ovdje se postavlja pitanje, koliko će koštati izgradnja dobre kupke? Odgovor je. A sada znamo.

Cijene za kupke od trupaca

Daleko najpopularnija vrsta kupki su kupke od drvenih trupaca. Ove su kupke atraktivne po tome što su napravljene od cijelih trupaca raznih vrsta, a to znači da će ova kupka trajati barem stoljeće, ako se želi održavati. Druga prednost, osim trajnosti, jest ta što su svi materijali korišteni u gradnji ekološki prihvatljivi.

Postoje mnoge tvrtke koje dizajniraju i grade takve kupke. I svaka tvrtka svoj posao vidi drugačije, ali cijene se ne razlikuju mnogo od konkurencije. Cijena kupke ovisi o kvadraturi i materijalu koji se koristi u njenoj konstrukciji.

Tako, na primjer, trupci bora i jele - duljine 6 metara i promjera 200 mm su oko 7nbsp600 rubalja. po m3, a za istu duljinu i promjer 400 mm trošak raste na 10nbsp000 rubalja. Što se tiče sibirskog cedra, ariša, ovdje možete sigurno dodati 6000-7000 R. gore navedenim cijenama. A to je cijena samo za materijal, bez radova.

Tvrtke koje se bave proizvodnjom kupki imaju svoje utvrđene veličine kupki i njihove cijene. I usput, to je prilično prikladno, a izgledaju vrlo atraktivno. Tako, na primjer, tvrtka, Moskva i Lenjingradska regija, jasno zadržavaju određene cijene za određene kvadratne kupke.

Najmanja kupka u takvoj tvrtki ima površinu od 13 m2, a cijena nje, zajedno s performansama, iznosi 230nbsp000 rubalja. Naravno, u ovu cijenu nije uključena isporuka kupelji na svoje mjesto, a ne koristi se ariš ili cedar, te uobičajeni bor i smreka.

Najveće kupke ikad dizajnirane za takve tvrtke imaju površinu od 26 m2, troškovi takvih kupki bit će 310nbsp000 rubalja zajedno s nabavom. Sada se razmatra cijena i kvadratura malih i velikih kupatila, međutim, postoji mnogo srednjih veličina, a cijene su što je više prikladna kvadratura, to je veća i cijena.

Za one koji žele koristiti okrugle trupce od cedra i ariša, definitivno će morati platiti za svaki četvorni metar 6-7 tisuća rubalja. To znači da će 13 m2 troškovi kupke biti 320nbsp000 rubalja, a najveći od 26 m2 iznosit će 490nbsp000 rubalja.

Evo ovakve cijene cijena privatnog kupatila danas.

Zašto trebate?

Kroz svoju povijest kupelji su bili izrađeni od kamena, drveta, bakra, pa čak i srebra i zlata. Ali najpopularniji danas još svježiji materijali poput čelika i lijevanog željeza, emajlirani su i dobivaju na popularnosti akrila.U unutrašnjosti kupaonice odgovaraju određenom stilu, a bilo je ugodno za korištenje, potrebno je za tako važan rad, iako često nevidljivi element kao okvir - dizajn koji drži šalicu i odbojnike. Ako je izdržljiva, prikladna za odabrani model, kupka je pričvršćena čvrsto stabilno.

apsolutno potreban okvir pri odabiru slova neobičnog oblika:

Proizvodi složenog oblika obično se ne mogu pričvrstiti na zidove, a želite ih uokviriti u obliku platforme. Na posebnom okviru temeljenom na

Razlikuje li se okvir za akrilne kade od okvira do kupe za željezo ili čelik?

Principi ugradnje u kadi približno su jednaki za najčešće tipove:

Za ugradnju kupelji od čeličnih ili lijevanih željeza noge dovoljno je iskoristiti ili pričvršćeni na zidove metalnim kutom. Temeljitiji će biti podrška cigle, koji je zatim spreman ili domaći zaslon za kamuflažu. Proizvodi izrađeni od akrila , ugodni najelegantniji i najkreativniji oblici, zahtijevaju trajnu potporu, štite ih od stresa i naprezanja. Za svu ljepotu i eleganciju dna elastične, ali niže snage po drugim materijalima akrilne kupke mogu se saviti, ako ne i stajati previše Osim toga, ako se odbojnici trajno deformiraju, to će s vremenom dovesti do prodiranja vlage u spojeve između kupke i zidova te stvaranja plijesni i drugih nevolja. Stoga, ako je poželjan okvir, tada je dugotrajnost akrilnih kupki od presudne važnosti za kupku, sigurnu od čelika ili lijevanog željeza. Nadalje, ne preskupo za proizvode čija debljina ne prelazi 0,5 mm.

Vrste

Obično u trgovinama vodovodni okviri nude samo određene vrste kupki koje su komercijalno dostupne. Nažalost, ne može sva nosiva konstrukcija izdržati puno kupki napunjenih vodom koja se može ispirati s ljudima u njoj, posebno ako čašu ne zbije za jednu osobu, i luksuzne vruće čvrste dimenzije i oblici. U ovom slučaju, odabiru čvrste potpore i pravilnoj ugradnji morate pristupiti s najvećom ozbiljnošću kako ne biste kasnije izbjegli neugodna iznenađenja.

predloženi prodavači serijski okviri mogu biti:

Ako kupite ispravan model u trgovini nije moguće, čini se da je nepouzdan ili niste zadovoljni njegovim dizajnom (univerzalni modeli rijetko se nalaze na tržištu), okvir se može napraviti vlastitim rukama od drveta, pocinčano profilna ili profilna željezna cijev.

Savjeti za odabir

treba obratiti pozornost na ovisnost stečene kupke čvrstoću i kvalitetu broja potpornih točaka okvira: što je tanji kupka, to je veća potpora trebuetsya.Tselnosvarennaya dizajn također ukazuje na nedovoljnu čvrstoću.Zapamtite, ako se za potporu koriste samo četiri točke .Ako font ima neobičnu konfiguraciju za podršku, potrebna mu je posebna platforma, jer je uobičajeni okvir nepouzdan.

Uređaj

okviri okvira koji se nude zajedno s kadom, izrađeni su od metalnih limova četvrtastog presjeka i zaštićeni su od korozije posebnim premazom.

Ključni elementi okvira, bez obzira na konfiguraciju:

  • nosači, na uglovima same potporne zdjele,
  • glavno stablo, koje se upravlja visinom,
  • ukrućivači, bez kojih se ne mogu napraviti akrilni fontovi.

Kako napraviti vlastite ruke?

Ako predloženi gotovi proizvodi ne pobuđuju povjerenje, nisu prikladni za konfiguraciju, postoji želja za spremanjem i primjenom vještina „uradi sam“, možete napraviti svoj vlastiti okvir.

Za konstrukcije okvira potrebno je odabrati materijal koji je dovoljno izdržljiv i pristupačan.Najčešće vrste domaćeg dizajna:

  1. od drveta, čiji su pozitivni aspekti niski troškovi, lakoća rukovanja i stabilnost, kao poseban nedostatak - truljenje u kadi s vlažnim okruženjem. Zbog toga je visokokvalitetna zaštitna antiseptička obrada površine ili upotreba drva otporna na vlagu: cedar hrast, jelša, ariš i dr.,
  2. pocinčani profil koji se koristi za izgradnju suhozida. Ne može izdržati veliko opterećenje, pa je cijela ozbiljnost kupke korisna za pomicanje nogu i drvenih greda, a profil koji se koristi za dodatnu potporu i ukrasni okvir,
  3. Željezna profilirana cijev - najbolja opcija za okvir koji sadrži font bilo kojeg materijala.Tube priuštiti da postanu okosnica čak i za nestandardne kade izrađene od lijevanog željeza, ali za manipulaciju cijevi potrebno je zavarivač i malo rukovanja. s hrđom se lako može riješiti pomoću temeljnog premaza.
  4. Zidarstvo, ponavlja konture kupke, prilično je težak zadatak koji obavlja samo profesionalni graditelj i majstor koji nema vještine rukovanja, bilo bi teško, pogotovo ako kupka ima asimetrični ili ovalni oblik.

najpovoljniji domaći majstor za izradu okvira od drveta i vodootporne šperploče ili iverice. Postupak je sljedeći:

  • Za izgradnju temelja oko oboda drva,
  • pričvrstite okomite stupove,
  • Stavili su daske ili grede - vozit će kostur.

za pravokutnu zdjelu koja je dovoljna, ali ako je, na primjer, ovalna, onda je okvir prekriven listom šperploče ili iverice, koji zatim izrezati rupu željeni oblik.

Kako prikupiti?

Prije montiranja drvene konstrukcije, potrebno je odrediti visinu regala, što ovisi o preferiranoj visini okvira. To bi trebalo biti što je moguće manje, kako bi se u budućnosti koristila kupaonica što je bilo prikladno za sve članove obitelji. Izračunajte broj regala je također jednostavan: oni moraju biti u svim uglovima i dodatno montirani na svaka dva metra duž police.

koristite razinu zgrade - preduvjet je za uspješno izvršenje zadatka.

algoritam sklapanja je sljedeći:

  1. Pomoću vijaka s antikorozivnim premazom za pričvršćivanje drvene baze na betonski pod,
  2. Sigurni nosač na temelju korištenja metalnih dijelova ili drvenih šipki,
  3. Ako stalak uza zid - i popraviti ga,
  4. Postavite drva na vrh regala i pričvrstite ih vijcima na zidove i police,
  5. list šperploče 15 mm ili iverice 25 mm za pričvršćivanje vrha po obodu,
  6. Iz predloška, ​​dostupnog u setu, ili pomoću posebnih uzoraka ili pile električne ubodne pile da biste vidjeli rupu,
  7. Zatvorite okvir na bočnim stranama ploča.

Kako instalirati?

Akrilna kupka je prikladnija za ugradnju nakon završetka ukrašavanja površina različitim materijalima:

izbor ovisi o financijskim mogućnostima i ukusnim preferencijama vlasnika.U tom slučaju, donji okvir se izlije cementnim jastučićem i odmah ga stavi na kadu. malo složenije postavljanje, proizvedeno prije obloge:

  1. potrebno staviti ispod branika obloge od drva šperploče, što odgovara visini buduće debljine pločica i ljepljivog sloja ispod nje,
  2. Rasporedite jastučiće po obodu,
  3. Pažljivo spustite kadu u rupu u cementnom temelju.

Nakon što se rješenje očvrsne u potpunosti, možete nastaviti s daljnjim vodovodnim radovima: za spajanje na vodu i sanitarnu zaštitu.

Grafički prikaz

Top-savjet
Možete kliknuti donju informacijsku sliku da biste prešli na grafiku u punoj veličini s određenim informacijama.

Ugradite ovu infografiku na svoju web stranicu (kopirajte kod dolje):

Kako izgraditi brvnaru

Izgradnja brvnare zahtijeva puno fizičkog i napornog rada. Većina vašeg posla bit će sječa, rezanje, ljuštenje, rezanje i podizanje trupaca dok gradite kabinu. Puno početnika će često pitati:

  • Koliko vremena treba izgraditi dom od drveta?
  • Koliko će koštati izgradnja brvnare?
  • Gdje biste trebali sagraditi brvnare?
  • Može li netko bez ikakvog iskustva u obrtništvu graditi kuću od drveta?
  • i ... koliko će mi trupaca trebati ?!

Ovaj će vodič odgovoriti na sva ta pitanja ... i što je još važnije, pokazat će, raspraviti i naučiti vas kako izgraditi kuću od dnevnika.

Korak 1. Planiranje dnevnika


Planiranje izgradnje brvnare najvažnija je faza ...

Ne planiranje nove kuće za prijavljivanje jedna je od najčešćih pogrešaka koje početnici čine.

Trebat će vam oko 280 dana da napravite kućicu od brvnara ispočetka, pripazite da potrošite značajno vrijeme na planiranje i udobnost uz sve uključene faze i građevinske procese.

Kada govorimo o planiranju - ne mislimo na tlocrt i dizajn. Mislimo na detaljni raspored izgradnje detaljno: pripremu trupaca, uklanjanje gradilišta, temelje, izgradnju i sve ostalo što ćete otkriti podrazumijeva izgradnju savršene kuće od dnevnika.

Za pripremu plana građenja trebat će vam:

  • Ciljevi (tj. Koliko dugo trebate uzeti za izgradnju brvnara? Koliko spavaćih soba želite itd.)
  • Istraživanje (tj. Razgovarati s vlasnicima kućica, pogledajte YouTube videozapise o građevinskim tehnikama)
  • Kupljeno zemljište
  • Dovršen proračun
  • Finalizirani resursi (tj. Koliko radne snage ste podmićivali, kako i kada to možete koristiti?)
  • Dizajniran je brvnara i njezin tlocrt

Prije nego što pokušate započeti s izgradnjom brvnare, provjerite jeste li detaljno isplanirali i dovršili troškove. Započnite s čitanjem najvažnijih faza izrade kućice, a zatim nastavite čitati u nastavku.

Tlocrt i dizajn

Stvarni dizajn vaše kućice za brvnare može se činiti vrlo zastrašujućom fazom ili priliku da izrazite svoj kreativni genij ... ovisno o vašoj vrsti ličnosti i vještinama.

Ako ste bivši, predlažem da se obratite arhitektu brvnara, imamo mnoštvo savjeta, pitanja koja možete postaviti i kako pronaći pravog arhitekta ovdje.

Ako želite izgraditi jednostavnu brvnaru, tada postoji mnoštvo besplatnih planova poda i dizajna za sve vrste kuća od brvnara ... a prvo započnite s pregledom ovih planova kabina. Ove su nacrte nacrtali arhitekti i istaknuli su tlocrte i nadmorske visine.

Ako ste kasniji i želite pokazati svoju kreativnost dizajnirajući onda vlastitu kućicu brvnara:

  • Imamo dizajnersku seriju članaka koji će vam dati inspiraciju, to je sjajna polazišna točka!
  • Također imamo važne čimbenike koje treba uzeti u obzir prilikom dizajniranja kućice od trupca kako biste maksimizirali svoj prostor i stvorili elegantan dom.

To bi trebalo biti više nego dovoljno za lijevu i desnu stranu mozga da dovrše svoje dizajne brvnara!

Top-savjet

Nakon donošenja vaših planova posjetite općinski odjeljak za planiranje kako biste osigurali da se vaši planovi pridržavaju građevinskih pravila. Uz to, nabavite graditelja ili građevinskog inženjera za provjeru strukturnih svojstava vaše kabine.

Izbor materijala

Prodavci nude dvije vrste drva:

Sirovina je jeftinija, ali nakon izgradnje trupca kuća će dati značajno skupljanje.

Za izgradnju pouzdane kupke, koja će trajati dugi niz godina, potrebno je drvo sakupljeno zimi, očišćeno od kore i dovoljno osušeno. Kuća od takvih trupaca može se raditi 50 godina.

Tijekom izgradnje kupelji koriste se zaobljeni trupci, jer su zgrade od trupaca lijepe i uredne. Riječ je o piljenim krošnjama stabala, osušenim do vlage ne većim od 18%, a dobiveni su tijekom obrade oblika cilindra i uzdužnog utora. Četinarske sorte drva manje su osjetljive na truljenje od vlage, preporučuje se za upotrebu pri izgradnji kupelji. Na donjoj je kruni uzeta najotrovnija okrugla drvna građa - hrast ili bor. Promjer zaobljenih trupaca kreće se od 180 do 320 mm, u hladnim krajevima koriste se debeli napuni. Na prodaju je dostupan kompletan set trupaca za kadu s numeriranim trupcima. Ova će opcija biti skuplja, ali gradi se brže i lakše.

Dizajn

Primjeri crteža za kupanje različitih veličina i broja soba mogu se naći na Internetu, a veliki broj fotografija omogućit će vam odabir modela za dušu. Crtež prikazuje ukupne dimenzije zgrade i svake prostorije zasebno. Na temelju crteža izračunava se broj trupaca, dasaka i obloga zida.

Spremanje trupaca na neko mjesto zahtijeva njihovo slaganje i ventilaciju. Da biste to učinili, položite ploče između redova.

Temelj

Osnova kupke odabrana je na temelju težine strukture i vrste tla na mjestu. Najčešće su mogućnosti drvene konstrukcije od čelične trake i stupac temeljenja. Temelj trake je trajna i svestrana opcija, savršen je za zagrijavanje tla bilo koje dubine smrzavanja i poduprijet će izgradnju nekoliko prostorija.

Označivši mjesto za buduće zidove, kopaju rovove dubine od 80 cm do 1 m. Pijesak se na dnu, prelije vodom i zatrpa kako bi se dobio jastuk. Sloj pijeska je 15 cm. Oplata se postavlja s ploče, a unutar nje se postavljaju armature. Gornja ravnina temelja odbija se od horizonta. Beton u oplati istodobno se izlijeva oko oboda, to će vam omogućiti da napravite monolitnu bazu. Nakon sušenja potrebno je temelj premazati bitumenom i položiti krovni materijal za hidroizolaciju.

Kod postavljanja pilota na stupni temelj koriste se azbestno-cementne cijevi s ojačanjima unutarnjim uglovima, koja se izlije betonom. U gornjem dijelu je imitirano sidro od trupca.

Brvnara

Za rad će vam trebati:

  • sjekira,
  • stameska,
  • električna bušilica,
  • nagib i razina,
  • motorna pila

Zidovi započinju polaganjem prvog vezivnog prstena. Koristi najbolje drvo, dodatno impregnirano antiseptikom. Pod krunom je postavljena izolacija - juta, vuča. Trupci se nalaze pod kutom od 90 stupnjeva, a povezani su sjeckanjem u zdjelu. Ova metoda jedna je od mnogih opcija, ali je jednostavna za izvođenje, što je vrlo važno za neiskusnog graditelja. Za spajanje u gornjem dijelu izrezano je udubljenje - posuda, što osigurava pouzdano uklapanje materijala. Posuda je sjekirom sječena i obrezana motornom pilom. Dijagonale unutar okvira provjeravaju se i stavlja se sljedeći red.

Laneno vlakno ili vuča koriste se za izolaciju. Trupci su povezani uz pomoć drvenih mozga, za koje buše rupe električnom bušilicom. U procesu izgradnje kuće od brvnara, vertikalnost zidova kontrolira se razinom

Krov za kupku

Kada su zidovi podignuti na željenu visinu, postavljene su stropne grede, krov će se odmarati na njima. Česta opcija je zabatni krov i malo potkrovlje. Rafteri za krov koji idu ispod i dižu se na krov. Noge raftera pričvršćene su na udaljenosti od 1 metra i povezane su na vrhu. Na njih je punjena obreshetka za krovni pokrov. Pod sandukom pričvršćena parna barijera. Pokrijte krov kupelji može biti metal, škriljevca, roll materijal.

Dorada

Unutarnji prostor potrebno je ugraditi nacrtni pod s izolacijom. Zidovi parne sobe obloženi su pločom od lamela, ispod kojeg je postavljena prekrivena izolacija. Potrebno je da kada se zagrijava, smola iz trupaca ne pogodi ljude. Završna obrada vrši se od listopadnih stabala. Vanjski dio kupke je dobar u svom prirodnom obliku i ne zahtijeva dodatnu doradu. Prozore i vrata najbolje je instalirati nakon konačnog skupljanja trupca.

U ruskoj kupki od trupaca, sklopljenih samostalno, uvijek je toplije i ugodnije.

Ovaj videozapis govori o projektu saune 3x3 trupa s čekaonicom na dva metra:

Izgradnja vlastite kabine za traperice

Prvi put ući u jednu od tih kabina sjeverne šume bilo je - za nas - nezaboravno iskustvo. Unutrašnjost, jedna velika, nepodijeljena soba, odražavala je blizinu ljudi koji su tamo živjeli i jedinstvo njihovog života i aktivnosti. U središtu stambenog prostora zavladao je "hermetički" grijač, a sve - veliki potkrovlje za spavanje s drvenim prilaznim ljestvama, domaćim stolicama i stolovima - bilo je izgrađeno od trupaca.

Tijekom tih ranih dana ovdje, u Yukonu, razgovarali smo o planovima za svoju kabinu. Mogućnosti su bile ograničene - i u dizajnu i u dimenzijama - činjenicom da smo bili samo dvoje ljudi i nismo mogli računati na bilo kakvu pomoć u grmlju. Konvencionalna konstrukcija s krovom na krovu, na primjer, činila je prilično poteškoća (osobito kod postavljanja teškog grebena). Kao alternativu razmatrali smo kupolu, koju bismo brzo izgradili i dala bi nam puno svjetla. Međutim, jedan pogled na cijenu potrebnih potpornja i šperploče učinio nam je da taj plan zaboravimo dovoljno brzo.

Tada nam je odgovorio planinarski izlet u planine. U zaklonjenoj dolini pronašli smo staru, raspadnutu kuću, sagrađenu nisko i malo od prilično tankih trupaca i prekriven natkrivenim krovom. Ono što smo gledali bila je „kabina trapera“. , , struktura koja kombinira jednostavnost, niske troškove i uštedu energije. Jedan čovjek može postaviti kabinu za traper za dva ili tri tjedna, čak i bez motorne pile ili drugog električnog alata. Jasno, ovo je bila stan za nas.

Odlučili smo da će naša kabina s unutarnje strane biti kvadratna 15 stopa, a građena bi od oko 80 trupaca u prosjeku duljine 18 stopa i promjera od 6 do 9 inča. ("Prosjek" je tačan ... drveće koje smo oborili nije bilo baš ravno i često se sužavalo od 8 inča na stražnjici do 3 na drugom kraju.)

Najviše su nam bile potrebne drvene građe za temelje: dva trupaca duljine 20 stopa i promjera 14 centimetara. Ove smo ogulili i sušili dva tjedna prije nego što smo ih obradili galonom drveta za zaštitu. Zakrvavili smo i trupce za krov, ali ne i zidove. U proljeće, kad se uzgaja sok, deblo stabla može se osipati sjekirom za 15 minuta. , , ali jesen se približavala i u toj sezoni isti posao traje 45 minuta s poteznim nožem.

Temeljni stubovi postavljeni su - paralelno, udaljeni 15 stopa i napola ukopani u zemlju - kako bi izravno podupirali bočne zidove i služili kao podloge za cijelu kabinu.

Dalje smo rezali dva zareza, udaljena 15 stopa, u svaku od drva temelja kako bismo primili dno trupaca za prednji i stražnji zid. Budući da su se debla suzila, svaki se zarez morao pojedinačno rezati na polovinu debljine kraja trupca koji je trebao držati.

U tom trenutku imali smo kvadrat na tlu: dva trupca temelja, napola zakopana, a baze prednjeg i stražnjeg zida spustile su se u svoje zareze i počivale na zemlji. Bili smo spremni položiti nosač za pod: Sastojalo se od četiri trupca, paralelno s prednjim dijelom kabine i postavljenih u zareze urezane u temeljne dijelove u razmacima od tri metra.

Izgradnja naše kabine za trapera od te faze temeljila se na lukavoj upotrebi konusnih stabala s kojima smo morali raditi. Ideja je bila izmjeniti velike i male krajeve trupaca dok smo gradili prednji i stražnji dio zgrade. , , kako bi svaki zid završio na razini. Na bočnim su stranama, međutim, sve drvene grane postavljene naprijed kako bi prednji zid bio viši od stražnjeg kako se krov kućice ne bi naginjao. (Možete vidjeti na što mislim tako što su napravili dvije hrpe drvenih šibica, jednu hrpu nagomilanu s glavama i krajevima naizmjenično, a drugu složenu na glavu.)

Započeli smo ovaj postupak slaganja rezanjem prednjih i stražnjih trupaca kako bismo primili prve drvene pločice bočnih zidova (oba su postavljena, ne zaboravite, s stražnjicama okrenutim prema naprijed). Jednom na mjestu, trupci su se odmarali na drvenim temeljima. , , što je bilo u redu osim što smo još uvijek mogli vidjeti dnevnu svjetlost tamo gdje su se slojevi susretali. Tako smo zatvorili praznine tako što smo motornu pilu nekoliko puta vodoravno položili između neusklađenih trupaca kako bismo otklonili nepravilnosti sve dok nije došlo do pukotina. (Nakon toga često smo se morali vraćati i produbljivati ​​zareze na istim trupcima, jer će tako izglađeno deblo navijati sjedeći niže nego prije.) Zatim smo postavili traku stakloplastike na temeljnu drvenu ploču, bacili narezane- dolje zapisujte bočni zid u svoje posljednje počivalište i pričvrstite ga s četiri sedmoinčna uboda uguran u izbušene rupe.

Nakon što je gradnja nastavila na isti način: dvije trupce bočnih zidova bile su urezane, a druga drvena građa za prednju i stražnju stranu kabine pala su na svoje mjesto, spljoštena motornom pilom, lijepljena stakloplastikom i pričvršćena s četiri šiljka. I tako dalje.

Četrnaest trupaca sa jedne strane učinilo je strukturu visokom koliko smo htjeli. U tom je trenutku prednji zid bio visok desetak, a stražnji približno šest stopa, s tim da su stranice nagnute prema naprijed - sprijeda natrag - između dva. Zaustavili smo se u tom trenutku, izrezali otvore za prozore i vrata te ih (privremeno) uokvirili s nekoliko komada drveta.

Kao mjera predostrožnosti protiv krovnog sloja postavili smo dva oguljena trupa trupaca paralelno s prednjim i stražnjim zidovima i ravnopravno od njih. Zatim smo dodali još oguljenih trupaca, paralelno s strana zidovi i počivaju na dva splavi te prednjem i stražnjem dijelu kabine. Takav "strop" može se završiti krovnim papirom ili 4 mil. Plastikom, nakon čega slijedi sloj zemlje. , , ili sa šest redova veličine 2 do 4 nalijepljene preko čvrstog sloja debla pod pravim kutom, prekrivenih daskama i prekrivenih krovom s papirom. Odabrali smo drugu metodu.

Završni korak u vremenskoj izolaciji naše kabine olakšan je fiberglasom koji je već natopljen u zidove. Umjesto da se blato i mahovina miješaju kako bi se ispucali i zalijepili pukotine koje su ostale između trupaca, sve što smo trebali učiniti je gurnuti stakloplastike tu i tamo drvenom gumicom.

Vrata naše kabine izrađena su od starog drveta, ali mogu li i ja biti drveni trupci s unutarnjim pločama. Budući da očekujemo da se zgrada smjesti, ostavili smo dva inča prostora - ispunjenog stakloplastikom - iznad vrata i prozora.

Zatim je došao kat. Imali smo dovoljno sreće da nabavimo stare ploče za urez i urez koje smo položili preko potpornih trupaca. , , a bilo je dovoljno daske da između njih naprave dvostruki sloj s krovnim papirom. Djelomično je ta čvrsta konstrukcija olakšala održavanje kabine toplom čak i na 50 stupnjeva ispod nule.

Sa stambenim prostorom od samo 15 stopa, morali smo smisliti vrlo učinkovit dizajn interijera. Jedan od naših trikova bio je okretanje četiri ogoljene trupce visoke tri i pol metra uspravno na pod i postavljanje okvira kreveta na njih. Time smo dobili većinu velikog skladišnog prostora ispod većine hrane (zalihe blizu zida čak i ostaju smrznute cijelu zimu.)

Ostatak našeg namještaja jednako je jednostavan. Stol od debelih dasaka, poduprt od 2 do 4 i tri trupca, uz jedan zid i dvije stolice od cijepljenih trupaca i stupova. S dvije strane prostorije - po cijeloj dužini i dijelu njegove visine - također smo šiljali daske koje služe kao police. U kutu nasuprot krevetu nalazi se naša "hermetička" peć.

I to je to. Naša kabina nije predivna, ali ima dom. , , i lijepo se stapa s šumama, planinama i jezerima Yukon.

Zakoni zoniranja / Građevinski propisi

Većina, ako ne i sve, zemlje svijeta imaju zakone i druge propise o planiranju, građevinske pravilnike i zakone o zoniranju.

Da nije njih, imali bismo čudne i otkačene kuće koje se pojavljuju po našim gradovima, selu i ruralnim područjima!

Sa svakim sustavom dolazi do rupa i izbjegavanja, međutim, obično morate biti stvarno kreativni ili jednostavno izgraditi vrlo malu kućicu za brvnare da biste izbjegli ove propise.

Veličina varira od županije do županije, ali vaš dom za zapisnike trebao bi biti izgrađen manje od 20x15ft kako bi se izbjegli državni propisi.

Obavezno pročitajte i razumijete zakone o gradnji i zoniranje. Kad god je to moguće, potražite pravni savjet, zadnje što želite je općinski regulator zgrade koji naređuje rušenje vaše kućice.

Ako ste u SAD-u počnite s čitanjem, a u Velikoj Britaniji to pročitajte.

Odabir zemljišta

Većina će već imati svoje zemljište, tako da ćemo ovaj dio držati kratkim.

Ako još niste kupili svoje zemljište, potražite ovdje savršene lokacije brvnara koje će vas voditi kroz postupak i pružiti vam korisne popise.

Obavezno shvatite i znate o:

  • Lokalna država i zakonitosti
    • Postoje granična i zakonska ograničenja, budući razvojni planovi / planovi gradnje i zakoni o zoniranju.
  • Komunalije i usluge
    • Obavezno se priključite na lokalnu komunalnu mrežu, vodovodnu i odvodnu infrastrukturu. Komunalne usluge obično novim korisnicima nude besplatnu liniju od 100 ft prije nego što naplaćuju 7 dolara po nozi
  • Uvjeti tla
    • Analizirajte vrstu tla (stijena, glina, šljunak itd.), Granice, vodene tablice, padine, obrise i topografiju kako bi se osigurala prikladnost.
  • Gdje smjestiti svoju kućicu
    • Osigurajte odgovarajuće prirodno utočište i prekrasne poglede

Top-savjet
Najlakši, najjeftiniji i najbrži način dobivanja trupaca za vašu kućicu od brvnara je kupnja zemljišta s prikladnim drvećem koje se već nalazi.

Za one koji već imaju zemljište ili grade na obiteljskom zemljištu, primarni bi faktor trebao biti istražiti sve pravne elemente i osigurati da su na raspolaganju dobre usluge i usluge za povezivanje vašeg dnevnika.

Troškovi brvnare

Smanjivanje troškova za vašu brvnaru očito je važan faktor. Tijekom faze planiranja trebate ukloniti sve nesigurnosti oko troškova, materijala i alata.

Znatni troškovi za kuću od brvnara nastaju tijekom sljedećih aktivnosti ili kupovine sljedećih materijala:

  • Priprema mjesta i temelji - ovisno o vrsti temelja i tlu
  • Komunalije i usluge
  • Drvna građa (tj. Drvna građa) - koliko trupaca će vam trebati?
  • Izolacija - ovisi o metodi i tehnici izolacije
  • Krovište - ovisi o krovnim materijalima (singlovi, filc, trupci ili pločice)
  • Popravci (unutarnji, prozori i vrata)
  • alat

Mnogo gornjih troškova možete uštedjeti ili smanjiti ako želite koristiti vlastiti prirodni materijal i ručno graditi kabinu.

Izgradnja brvnare na vrlo uskom proračunu je ostvariva, ali morat ćete preraditi, potkupiti besplatnu radnu snagu i koristiti vlastite zapisnike.

Trebali biste očekivati ​​da ćete platiti oko 25 dolara po kvadratu. Dakle, za brvnaru od 800 četvornih metara trošak će biti nešto manje od 20 000 dolara (to ne uključuje kupnju zemljišta i unutarnjeg namještaja).

Top-savjet
Veličina i složenost vaše brvnare dva su najznačajnija faktora koja će smanjiti troškove. Jednostavna kućica od trupaca s kvadratnim ili pravokutnicima s istim kvadratima bit će mnogo jeftinija od kuće s novim zapisnikom dizajna "novog" ili "alternativnog" L.

Zaustavimo i preradimo fazu planiranja

Sada smo pokrili planiranje vaše brvnare. Trebali biste biti u mogućnosti odgovoriti na sljedeća pitanja:

  • Koliko će koštati izgradnja moje kućice za trupce?
  • Tko će graditi moju brvnaru?
  • Gdje će biti sagrađena moja kućica?
  • Postoje li zakoni o zoniranju ili građevinski propisi koji utječu na moju kućicu?
  • Kako će izgledati moja brvnara nakon što je izgrađena?

Ako na njih ne možete odgovoriti, STOP i pronađite odgovor prije nego što prijeđete na fazu izgradnje vaše kućice.

Faza izgradnje može naići na vrlo zastrašujuću fazu! Ne brini! Uvjereni smo da imate sve informacije i stručna vodstva potrebna u ovom vodiču za uspjeh.

Korak 2. Odabir i priprema zapisnika (hranjenje)


U ovom trenutku imat ćete svoje zemljište za svoju brvnaru, tako da je vrijeme za lov na trupce!

Vrijeme je da se fizički. Krmljenje stabala uključuje: pronalaženje, sječu, izvlačenje, skidanje i sušenje.

Odabir najboljih trupaca za vašu kućicu od brvnara od presudnog je značaja jer će smanjiti održavanje, poboljšati izolacijska svojstva i poboljšati dugovječnost vašeg doma od brvnara.

Dakle, što biste trebali tražiti?
Samo u Sjevernoj Americi postoji preko 800 vrsta stabala, ali proizvođači kuća za stabla obično koriste samo desetak tih vrsta drveća za brvnare.

Iako je istina, većina vrsta drveća je prikladna, pod uvjetom da rastu ravno i visoko. Neke su vrste superiorne od drugih zbog snage, izolacijskih svojstava i sposobnosti da prirodno podnose vremenske uvjete.

Ako živite u Sjevernoj Americi, želite potražiti stabla ispod:

  • Borovi (crvena, žuta ili bijela)
  • Cedar (zapadno bijeli)
  • Dotjerati
  • Liščari (orah, topola ili hrast)

U Europi su pravila slična, ali vaš izbor je ograničen. Usredotočite se na dobar bor ili smreku. U Australiji potražite jele Redwood i Douglas.

If you can’t find any tree species above on your site then look at log cabin lumber selection, there you will find a glossary of tree species and their suitability for being used in log homes.

Top-tip

Once you have found your lumber, you will be looking for trees with the following profile:

  • 30ft to 40ft in length
  • 10” to 14” in diameter
  • Limited warping/tapering
    • Any more than 4” of warping over 30ft length is too much.

How many logs will I need to build a log cabin?!


The only thing left before felling your logs is to calculate how many you need.

Primjer
If we are building a rectangular log cabin that measures:

If your average log diameter is 12” then you will require:

  • 18 x 24ft logs for the width
  • 18 x 44ft logs for the length
  • 22 x 24ft logs for the gable ends
  • 3 x 44ft logs for the ridge and purlin logs

That’s a total of 61 logs to fell.

This example is simplistic as it assumes all logs felled will be okay to use (no warping, checking or cracking after drying) and a 4FT log overhang for notching. A calculator can be found here to determine the exact number of logs your build will require.

So, you now need to go and fell your trees… all 61 of them.

If you haven’t felled trees before, read this for guidance, tooling and advice.

Once felled… debark and dry

After you have felled your trees you will need to debark them.

Bark holds lots of moisture and acts as a home for inspects causing decay and infestation. Debarking your logs is a simple process requiring a drawknife and patience.

Use a drawknife at a 30 degree angle you can peel the bark from the log very easily.

Now your trees have been debarked they will need to be left to dry.

Keep all of your logs off the ground.

When stacking the logs, space them out using stickers, this will increase ventilation allowing logs in the centre of the pile to dry too.

Cover them with plastic or something breathable to keep the elements off the logs.

Different species require different drying times. If you have selected a good spruce or pine then you will want to leave them for a year.

Top-tip
Seal the log ends with paraffin wax. This prevents moisture evaporating too quickly causing cracks and ring separation. If you decide to perform this step, do it within minutes after felling the trees, not days, as the moisture will have evaporated.

Ideally you will want to fell, debark and seal the log on the same day of felling. This prevents too much moisture escaping and prevents the bark form adhering to the log post felling.

This will save you lots of work with your debarking knife and stop logs from unnecessarily checking, splitting or cracking.

Cons and pros bath made of logs

Wooden logs have a beautiful natural structure, but this is not their only advantage.

Prednosti:

  • Log walls easily passed steam and air, leaving the inside is warm and wonderful aroma of wood,
  • Bath of timber more durable, comfortable, less holds various external sounds,
  • Rustic bath lasts for decades without any additional reconstructions,
  • Natural subcortical layer of sliced ​​logsIt protects wood against bacterial rot, fungal infection and insect damage. In this case, additional treatment with special impregnation is not necessary,
  • Log buildings baths made of logs can be built on any architect's project, because the walls can be positioned at any angle to each other,
  • Substantial savings of energy resources to the bath to heat and keep warm, due to the fact that the logs tightly fitted almost do not miss the heat,
  • Today baths from the logs quickly and easily built with high quality processing logs and fit under the required precise dimensions,
  • Natural, environmental, and health remain the main advantages of chopped bath.

nedostaci arise only at non-professional approach to construction:

  • If the timber is picked up incorrectly, too crude, in the future can happen "shrinkage" of the structure, and any longitudinal cracks,
  • Build a bath made of logs should be experts in their field, otherwise there is the risk of not getting the expected results, and all of the above benefits.

Of logs for the bath should be smooth shade

How to choose the wood for the bath from logs

In ancient Rus' Secrets of the building bathslogs were transmitted from generation to generation. Building material was prepared in advance, dried for a long time in the wild, so the preparation and construction took a long time.

Since then and to this day, for sauna usethese woods: pine, spruce, cedar and larch sometimes. The best material is pine harvested in the winter. That it has the best moisture resistance performance. Selected timber at least 25 cm in diameter, made of wood with a high density.

Važno! Choosing wood for construction, it should be noted that the timber of the same grade, but grown in different climatic conditions, has a different density level.

the wood requirements for bath:

  • Low thermal conductivity,
  • Low thermal capacity,
  • Soft pleasant smell,
  • Resistance to splitting,
  • Good sound absorption,
  • The strength and durability,
  • The absence of resin pockets,
  • As little as possible knots.

Recommend frame bath made of logsrun from northern softwood timber. It has a dense structure and does not change its properties from the temperature difference and humidity increase. It is best suited pine and spruce from the coast of the Baltic Sea and the Canadian spruce. Sometimes using high quality hardwood lumber linden, aspen, alder.

What should I look for when buying logs:

  • The surface of the logs should be light or dark yellow color,
  • The branches have to sit inside without gaps. If there are gaps, then the core rotten,
  • Slice the logs must have a solid surface,
  • On a cut should not be blue spots,
  • The core should be three-quarters of the cut and have a smooth, dark hue,
  • Hit an ax on a log end, it should rebound and thus issue a ringing sound.

Why Bath Bombs?

Building a bath bomb business comes with a variety of benefits. As aforementioned, you can create your own line of products in your kitchen with just a few inexpensive ingredients.

Here are a few other reasons you should consider creating bath bombs:

  • Overhead costs are low. Depending on what ingredients you already have tucked around your house, the startup costs for this kind of business are minimal.
  • Možeš sell bath bombs both online and offline at markets and fairs.
  • Anyone can learn how to make bath bombs. As you’ll see from our recipe below, bath bombs are easy to make.
  • Because bath bombs are small and compact, it’s easy to store additional inventory.
  • Easy to customize: We’ll introduce you to a simple bath bomb recipe below that serves as a guideline for creating your own, but you can switch out interesting or unusual ingredients to differentiate your products.
  • Bath bombs are growing in popularity.

As we’ve already pointed out, the beauty business is booming. But bath bombs in particular have gained traction as a worldwide trend in the last few years — and it doesn’t look like their popularity will be slowing down anytime soon.

Based on data from Google Trends, web queries for “bath bomb” and related terms have steadily increased over that last five years:

In addition to shopping for these bath products for themselves, customers also purchase them in increasing increments as gifts around the holidays. As you can view in the graph above, the sharp spikes in sales happen around the holidays each year, showing that bath bombs are popular Christmas and holiday gifts.

Basic Bath Bombs

Most of us (even if you aren’t a cosmetics junkie) are familiar with a basic bath bomb. These products are traditionally spherical shaped and come in a variety of colors and scents. And once you drop them in your bath water, they fizz and create soothing bubbles.

Many are also infused with essential oils and other ingredients to make your bath even more relaxing. From lavender to sweet citrus scents, bath bombs offer a smorgasbord of smells to help you unwind and infuse your skin with moisture.

Jewel Bath Bombs

Some brands prefer to add little extras to their bath products in the form of sparkly jewels.

Popular brands like Charmed Aroma and Fragrant Jewels have not only created lines of sweet-smelling bathtime treats — their customers also receive semi-precious jewelry inside their bath bombs.

These jewel bath bombs range in scents and the type of jewelry they offer, but this version of bath bombs is one of the most popular, especially as a gift.

Glitter Bath Bombs

For those shoppers who love baths that are equally as shiny as they are relaxing, they can indulge in a variety of glitter bath bomb.

The luxurious addition of a little glitter, confetti, or other sparkles into these products has caught the eye of consumers — more major bath brands like Lush are making multiple variations of these beautiful bombs.

Shaped/Themed Bath Bombs

Other beauty merchants have chosen to think outside the box — or ball, in this case. Retailers are creating bath bombs in unusual and interesting shapes, like the cupcake bath bomb above from Feeling Smitten Bath Bakery.

Bath bomb creators have built products in a variety of shapes and sizes to meet the varying needs of their customers. Whether these customized bath products are intended as favors for a bridal or baby shower, an ideal gift for a pastry lover, or perfect for bathtime for your kiddos, there’s likely a themed product out there to meet shoppers’ demands. And from hearts to donuts to chill pills to Pokeballs, the only limit on the shape of your bath bomb is your imagination.

How to Make Bath Bombs

Once you’ve settled on what type of bath bombs you’ll make, it’s time to get started on how to make bath bombs — whether you choose a basic product or your own unique creation.

Gather Your Ingredients and Supplies

Bath bombs are surprisingly easy to make and only require a few essential items. While you can switch out some of these items to customize your bath bombs, this basic recipe calls for:

  • Voda
  • Corn starch
  • Mineral salt
  • Essential oil of your choice
  • Citric acid
  • Baking soda
  • Food coloring
  • Light vegetable oil

Merchants may already have some or all of these items sitting around your home. For any missing ingredients, you can also source all these items from your local grocery or craft store.

You’ll also require molds to shape your bath products. While you can certainly stick with the traditionally sphere shape, you can also purchase molds in a variety of shapes, sizes, and designs.

If you prefer shapes that are more unique, you can opt to purchase silicone molds that are usually used for baking (or for freezing ice into specific shapes).

Silicone molds offer aspiring beauty entrepreneurs more choices, hold up well during the creation process, are easily cleaned, and silicone trays help you create multiple products in one batch. Best of all, most silicone molds are priced at $5 or under per piece.

BILJEŠKA: Because bath bombs are crumbly in texture, molds with intricate designs and small pieces could break off. Testing and experimentation will help you decipher the best molds to use to achieve your desired results.

Mix and Build Your Bath Bombs

Now that you’ve gathered all the necessary ingredients and supplies, you can mix up your bath bombs.

Essentially, you just need to combine the wet and dry ingredients in separate bowls. Then you can slowly combine the two mixtures into a single bowl.

Once your ingredients are combined, simply pack the mixture into your favorite mold and place it into your freezer for an hour. Ensure the molds are tightly packed and fully filled with the mixture to keep your bath bombs dense.

After freezing, remove the bath bombs from the molds and ta da! You’ve successfully created your first batch of bath bombs.

If you don’t plan to use them (or sell them) right away, store them in airtight containers like plastic or glass Tupperware. Fresher bombs fizz and bubble more when dropped in a bath, so proper storage is integral to keep your inventory at its highest level of quality.

Selling Your Bath Bombs Online

Now that you’ve perfected your recipe and made your bath bombs, it’s time to start selling.

Amazon and Etsy are solid marketplace options to list your bath products, and you can also use an ecommerce tool like Shopify to build your own online store for a long-term business.

Free Email Guide

Are your emails costing you sales? Get our free guide full of additional tips to help retailers create high-impact emails.

You can also use a variety of digital marketing channels and tactics to drive traffic to your online store and specific products. Ready to get more eyeballs on your handcrafted bath products? Try some of the methods below:

  • Instagram: Build a large following of brand evangelists, provide demos of your products, and create beautiful visuals that engage your audience.
  • Facebook Live: While social media has always offered users the chance to become more engaged with the brands and celebrities they love — and become more loyal to them as a result — Facebook Live now makes it possible for fans to stop whatever they’re doing and experience engagement with their favorite brands on a whole new level.
  • Pinterest: More businesses are taking advantage of Pinterest to plant visual seeds, allowing new customers to find retailers on the platform.
  • Snapchat: The app has a user base of more than 200 million, and is especially popular among millennials, a demographic that marketers hope to better understand and influence. According to the platform, Snapchat reaches 41% of all 18-to-34-year-olds in the U.S. on any given day — a group that has around $200 billion in annual buying power.
  • Giveaways and Contests: Everyone likes free stuff. But giveaways aren’t just great for the winner — they’re an opportunity for you to grow your retail business. With a little bit of product as a prize and some marketing effort, an online giveaway can help your business.
  • Email Marketing: Deliver deals, promos, and news directly to your target audiences' inboxes — and make sales in the process.

While these aren’t the only channels you can use to reach your target audience, these are a few mediums that can help you get started and build a loyal following online.

Selling Your Bath Bombs Offline

Burgeoning beauty merchants don’t need to limit themselves to simply selling online — many makers also successfully sell IRL (in real life, of course).

Selling in person allows merchants to access a new audience and receive live feedback on their products. Market booths and pop-up shops allow small businesses the opportunity to have a temporary retail location without financially committing to high storefront rents and long leases on space. And selling alongside other talented crafters and DIY masters can serve up some serious inspiration for future products as well.

TRY SHOPIFY POS: Want to give Shopify's point of sale systems a test run? Start a free Shopify POS trial today.

More reasons to consider selling your products offline include:

  • Get a live product testing ground: You’ll hear direct feedback and questions from your customers. Addressing their concerns live gives merchants invaluable insights on how to improve products or answer customer pain points.
  • Introduce yourself to potential wholesale clients: Other retailers attend markets and fairs on the prowl for new products for their stores. This is an ideal opportunity for smaller beauty merchants to connect for wholesale deals.
  • Build an email subscriber list and/or social following from connections you meet at the fair, market, or festival.
  • Connect with fellow entrepreneurs, makers, and business owners. It’s never a bad idea to build your network.

While selling offline may sound a bit intimidating, it’s simple enough to take transactions while on the go. Using a mobile point-of-sale system like Shopify POS, you can set up shop and hawk your freshly made wares at flea and farmer’s market, craft fairs, and/or maker fairs.

If you’re keen to sell your products in the real world, read our guide to nailing the in-person selling experience.

Ready to Start Your Own Bath Bomb Business?

Now that you have a viable business idea and have some guidance on how to execute on it, you can work toward building a long-term, sustainable income. So, now it’s time to get out there and get selling!

Now that you've learned how to make bath bombs in your own kitchen, it's time to get started! Have you tried making your own bath bomb business? Have any tips for the rest of us? Share your advice in the comments below.

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What is rounded log?

In fact, round logs is a tree trunk, treated in a special machine to give him a standard diameter. This means that all of the log in your box will be the same as the mounting propyl be perfectly coincides with the convex bottom of the log.

In addition, such treatment makes the wood more durable. To understand how this happens you need to understand a little bit in the wood structure. Apart from a small central portion of the core, wood trunk consists of a strong, resin impregnated core or tannins and younger portion called sapwood. The kernel (or ripe wood from dec />

When rounding the sapwood is removed, and the core sand. It allows you to log the details of more durable. In addition, thanks to the perfect smoothness of workpieces, finishing baths made of logs becomes completely optional.

Why round logs?

To talk about the centuries-old traditions of wooden architecture can be very long. Yes, the wood used in our country for centuries, but choosing the material for its own bath, one must first ask not its history, and physical characteristics. In the case of a wooden house, our ancestors were much wiser than their descendants - the advantages of this material are obvious.

    Environmentally friendly - filling the room with steam bath, you can not at all be afra >The choice of location for the construction of

When choosing a site for the construction of a bath, you can be guided only by personal taste. The only restriction applies only to facilities, which include a swimming pool inside. In this case it is necessary to pick up station, where the water has a sufficiently low.

The project baths made of logs

In any large settlement you can easily find a company engaged in the manufacture of standard baths from the logs. In addition, for the most demanding customers, they are usually ready to develop and implement an indiv />

Početak rada

To begin construction can be even before you land on will be delivered to "designer" of logs. It will go much faster if by that time you will have a ready foundation. Ask the manufacturers of log to give you a bath and drawing the future, based on it, start pouring the foundation.

Basement waterproofing

Before proceeding to the installation of the first ring is necessary to make waterproofing the foundation. For this perfect roofing material, glued to the melted bitumen:

  • Lubricates the foundation of bitumen roofing material put on it.
  • After the first layer has cooled, pasted in the same manner a second layer of roofing felt and then wait until complete cooling.

Installation of the first ring

If you ordered a draft bath at a dedicated facility, then brought you to a log necessarily be numbered. In addition, the company representative must give you the assembly diagrams.

  • Construction bath made of logs starting with the installation of the first ring. Find logs destined for him, help scheme. Typically, the diameter slightly larger than the diameter remaining.
  • Before joining the boards together, you need to check the level of their position - first crown must be positioned horizontally.
  • Fill in the gaps between the foundation and the beams with foam.

Walling

At first the crown laid insulation. This may be hemp or jute. Now on sale you can find modern mezhventsovogo seals, which greatly facilitates the subsequent konopatku.

Važno! Mezhventsovogo insulation should be put between all the beams of the framework.

Now pick a second crown, set it in place and fastened with metal pins or wooden pins. Holes are to be drilled is still in production.

Subsequent assembly baths of logs produced in the same manner, in full accordance with the diagram.

Važno! The two upper crown bonding should not be. After shrinkage of their need to be removed to install the ceiling beams.

At this stage of the manufacture process of a log house is necessary to suspend. This is to ensure that there was a natural "shrinkage" design. Some manufacturers of round timber argue that their products do not shrink. However, experience shows that to get rid of this property of wood not yet been able to anybody. If you do decide to finish building the bath immediately after a year of operation it should be caulked over.

In order to protect the structure from moisture on the shrinking frame cover edging board and roofing material.

The buildings of quite dry timber, which gives minimal shrinkage, windows and doors can be installed immediately. But it is better to do it after the "hibernation".

Konopatka log

In order to make the structure as airtight as possible using this technique as konopatka. In this case, the gap between the logs by means of the special tool (it is called as well as the process - konopatka) compactor is driven - tow.

Tow - coarse entangled short fibers constituting the waste primary processing bast plants (hemp, flax, etc.)

The most common linen, jute and hemp. The first is much softer and therefore easier to use, and second, because of the high content of natural resins - ligina - less susceptible to rotting.

Despite the diversity of materials that can be insulated bath made of logs, prices of jute and linen, hemp, combined with a good quality of these materials make them the most popular.

Required tools and the basic principles of work you can see in the following video:

As you can see, the process is fairly simple, but it has some subtleties:

  • With konopatki mallets and trying to drive in the space between fragments of sealant hanging logs stacked between the rims when assembling the framework.

Važno! Instead of the special tool, you can use a regular chisel or a chisel. Konopatku make a wooden cutting board can be from just cut out the desired shape and focus the end.

  • Work should start from the bottom, passing along the perimeter of the building.

Važno! It is impossible to caulk only one wall log, it might skew.

    Once you have caulked gap between two logs from the ins >Roof

Roof wooden bath can be a lean-and gable. It is being built on the same principles as the roof of any other building.

As for the choice of material, which your bath made of logs will be covered - the cost is played probably the main role. Of course, most harmoniously combined with the wood looks natural tile. But if the budget does not allow to buy less expensive materials, you can do the usual galvanized steel or ondulin.

To create a harmonious ensemble, you can cover all the buildings on the site the same roofing material.

Važno! When designing and building the roof for the bath, consider the fact that the log shrinkage is possible even for several years.

Typically, the construction of such a roof is laid out on racks ridge pole, rafters and battens.

The interior of the bath made of logs

When the building is fully ready, you only think about its interior. Smooth timber itself looks quite attractive and often do not require additional finishing. It remains only to cover the floor tiles, set the oven and hang decorative elements. Here are a few design options and steam room waiting room, you might be able to learn for himself something interesting:

How to choose a location for the construction of baths

First of all, it is necessary to bypass portion,check where a primer. See where the neighbors, road and other key terms. Present that would like to see coming out of the steaming sauna.

Entrance to the bath is best placed on the south s >

Room near the river - a good option

If the site has a body of water: lake or pool, or access to the river, it is advisable to build a bath of logs to produce a number, but not closer than 15 m to during the flood is not flooded.

If there is a road, then a bath is better positioned on the other side of the site, away from prying eyes and exhaust.

If you want that neighbors have not seen yousteamed run out and jump into the pond, place the bath so that no one could be seen coming out of her door. And all the other areas viewed better enclose a fence or hedge.

If the groundwater is located too close to the construction of a bath pool is almost impossible to have to be content with a font and a shower.

Steam in the forest - pure air and a minimum of neighbors

Veranda or terrace, baths best to hide from prying eyes. It will be nice to come up with a cup of tea or a decoction of herbs, sit on a bench or just stand on the porch and did not catch on foreign views itself.

And, of course, do not forget about fire safety and sanitary rules into account when choosing a place for a bath.

Laying the foundation for a bath

If your dream - a bath with his hands out of a log, after selecting the area you need to choose which foundation is required for a bath.

To begin with we define the type of soil at the site of construction.

If the ground is swampy, forest or garden, clay, loam, of fine gravel or coarse sand, it is better to build a strip foundation.

If soils are distending, or building will be located on a slope, fit or screw pile foundations of concrete or metal piles.

If the soil is composed of fine sand, rocky rocks or quartz, can use any foundation.

Pier foundation under the bath from logs - economical option, which allows to significantly reduce the construction costs

If the soil permits, mostly constructionbath made of logs produced on the pier foundation. It is made of stone, brick or concrete. Previously used wooden poles now, too, sometimes, but they are short-lived. The depth of the columnar foundation may be from 70 to 100 cm.

To strip foundation necessary dig a trench, pour into it a layer of sand of about 15-20 cm. Top fill with rubble in the same layer, put rebar and pour concrete.

Step 4. Laying the Logs

So, you’ve probably spent what feels like a long time and not seen much visible progress… lots of planning, preparation and groundwork.

All that changes in this section of laying the logs.

You will now see major daily progress with your log cabin as you start to lay your logs.

Before you start to lay your logs you need to decide upon what notching system you will use to construct your log cabin corners.

Notches are scribed into logs and join the corners of your log home. Start by reading log cabin notches for beginners, before choosing the notch for your cabin.

You will probably choose one of the four following notches:

  1. Butt and Pass
  2. Full Scribed (Traditional)
  3. Full or Half-Dovetail
  4. Corner Post

The butt and pass notch is a modern favourite. This notch technique was invented recently with a goal of being very easy for novices to build log homes.

This notch doesn’t require skill or craftsmanship and minimises settling when building your log cabin. The idea behind the butt and pass notch is to “stack” whole logs without scribing them and using rebar to fix them.

Once your foundation has been laid, and you have selected your notch type, the first round of logs will need to be laid.

Training logs for packing

First of all it is necessary to trim the logs "onbracket. " The difference between the upper and lower diameter should be a maximum of 3 cm. Of course, you can buy ready-processed timber at the plant, but they have a major drawback. With large-scale production is difficult to calculate the precise layer that must be removed. And with the help of the planer can only be removed sapwood, and a protective layer of the tree remains. In this case the wood is more durable and more resistant to external influences.

Saw logs along the length of the wall andraskomplektovyvaem. Logs are tapered, and does not always work to balance the top and bottom diameter. Therefore, the most thick and thin ends are put together in a corner and cut off at a right angle.

Deviations in size logs should be in the range of 1-3 cm, or they will not sufficiently tightly against each other.

Bath made of logs implies the connection logs with special grooves. Choose a wood ax until the slot is displayed. Then cut down "paw" and check the density of their fit.

By the way, there are several cut outs:

The cut in "Oblomov" or "bowl" - the most durable

- In "Oblomov" ( "in the cup") - the most common, has three subspecies. One subspecies, when the bowl is down, it protects logs from rotting.

The cut in the "paw" - an economical option

- In the "paw" - saves the wood, but later rot. Therefore, the first method is always preferable.

If the density of the adjoining joints is insufficient, then on the lower beam laid moss or oakum.

Sill the first four logs

Setting your sill logs into the foundation is normally done by using the best logs you’ve felled. In this instance, the best logs are the largest in diameter, straightest and longest.

Top-tip

You should have provisioned the better logs for sills (4), purlins (2) and the ridge (1).

Now you have prepared (i.e. cut to length and pre-drilled) your four sill logs you can lift them into position.

Top-tip

Technically, sill logs are the first two width logs and sleeper logs are the first two length logs.

You will want to hew, or half-log, the sleeper (i.e.) sill logs. You can do this using a chainsaw or adze depending upon your preference.

Once hewn, drill a hole at either end of the sill logs. Lift the logs over the foundations’ rebar and slide the log down through the rebar (this assumes you are using a pad foundation).

Laying the sill logs is mostly a question of strength and lifting as opposed to craftsmanship. These logs are very heavy and it’s better to be patient, spending time to work precisely, and getting them in place.

Now the two sleeper (i.e.) sill logs are in place (fixed with rebar), lay the two-remaining sill logs using the butt and pass method.

Fix the logs together using short rebar pins.

At this phase in the build, call the municipal planning office and get a qualified structural engineer to approve the foundation and first course of logs.

You have now fitted the perimeter of your log cabin.

Installing the Floor

Log cabin floors are typically very fast and easy to assemble because their construction uses a suspended lumber floor.

You will ideally want 2 x 7” floor joists.

Top-tip

To determine the depth of your floor joists you need to divide the span of your sill log in half and add two.

e.g. 10FT span / 2 = 5FT (+ 2) = 7”

Notch your sill (i.e. sleeper) logs so you can insert the floor joists.

You will want to lay floor joists every 14” apart. So every 14” on each sill log create a notch to receive a floor joist.

Ensure the notch is the same width as your floor joist so you can create snug friction fit with the floor joist.

If you joists span more than 7Ft then install struts for lateral restraint and pillars for vertical restraint, a strut should be in the midpoint of your joists.

Make sure the joists run parallel, are plumb level and sit flush with the sill logs.

Finally, plank the floor, at right angles, to finish the floor.

Thermal insulation and thermal insulation of the bath: a better insulation for the bath .

Thermal insulation and thermal insulation of steam baths Vigorous and healthful glow - esteem is well insulated baths .

Log Wall Construction

Now it’s time to build and rise your log cabin’s walls!

Build your log cabin as if it doesn’t have doors, windows or openings. Using your selected notch technique, keep stacking your logs and erecting all four walls.

For each layer of your log cabin, rotate the direction of each log (i.e. alternate between the log’s butt and tip). This is an old trick to ensure the wall is kept roughly level due to the natural tapering of the log.

Use short rebar fixings (assuming you are using a butt and pass notch) to fix each log. Alternatively, scribe each notch and stack them.

If you do opt to use a traditional saddle notch, when scribing ensure you use a downwards facing notch in high rainfall areas.

Finally, if you hew your logs, hew the bottom of the log you’re about to fit, as opposed to the top of the most recent.

Doors and Windows

Creating door and window openings is as simple as removing the lumber in its place, supporting with a lintel log and tacking cleats to hold the opening.

Once opened, install the window frames or door jambs to hold the opening in place.

Top-tip
Ensure you use lintel logs above each opening to maintain your log cabin’s structural integrity.

Roof (Frame and Attach)


As most log cabins are either square or rectangle you won’t have much difficulty roofing it.

Once at roof height, like with notching techniques, you have many options for log cabin roof designs.

Keeping in tradition with classic log cabins, you will want to build a pitched roof for your log home.

Take the earlier purlin and ridge logs… it’s time to use your strength.

Continue building your gable wall, using the same technique you used to erect the cabin’s walls, until half-height. Now fix the the two purlin logs. Repeat this process to complete the gable wall and fit the ridge log.

The ridge log holds up the rafters which are fitted to it. In turn, the rafter holds the final roofing material in-place.

Top-tip
This construction technique is known as “purlin and rafter” as opposed to flat roofs. This roof style is preferred for its ease of construction and ability to withstand high window or snow load testing.

Notch your rafters into the purling and ridge logs. Fix plywood roofing boards to the rafters.

For more information on log cabin roofing construction techniques read this article.

You will now need to decide upon the finish of your log cabin’s roof, typically there are four choices:

  1. Thatched Roof
  2. Traditional Wood Shingles
  3. Roofing Felt
  4. Metal Sheeting

You have now have finished roofing your log cabin.

Step 5. Log Cabin Exterior and Maintenance


Once you have built your log cabin, the final stage is to weatherproof it.

Moisture in humid climates and dampness in cold climates can very quickly cause your log home to rot if left unfinished.

The most important factors are to clean, chink and stain your cabin.

Cleaning your logs

Your logs may have collected dirt from your construction site, or haulage, so the first activity is to clean the logs.

Washing your cabin’s logs will also remove dust, pollen and deposits too.

Wet the logs with water, then take a mild detergent, and with a soft bristle brush, scrub in small circles moving from the bottom of your log cabin to the top. Then repeat this process from the top of your log cabin to the bottom,

Leave the cabin to dry for at least two days.

Staining your logs

Treating or staining your logs can be done during felling or after the build.

Typically once you have removed the bark from your logs you can apply a borate solution to protect them.

Then once your cabin has been built, you can stain your log cabin to maintain the original logs’s color by protecting it from UV rays.

When you first stain your cabin it will last for between 18-24 months, depending upon UV exposure.

Top-tip

Typically, south facing gables weather more than the rest due to direct sunlight exposure.

Take an oil based stain, and work in small horizontal areas paint “wet on wet” (i.e. backroll the stain).

Chinking your cabin

Chinking is the sealant for your logs to prevent air and moisture infiltration.

If you have used a butt and pass notch technique you will absolutely need to chink your cabin. Some of notching techniques (dovetail) don’t require chinking.

First, any crack, split or check over 2cm in size should be filled and sealed with chinking.

Then, take your chinking and, using a trowel, apply it along the length of the joints in your logs.

Clean using a damp cloth to give a nice finish.

In the future you will need to maintain your log cabin by being proactive and performing bi-annual checks using this checklist.